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Go-Bars-construction http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=3580 |
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Author: | bob J [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:51 pm ] |
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Where did you find the 1/2" t nut to screw the 1/2" bar into the base, or how did you do it without the nut? |
Author: | crazymanmichael [ Fri Oct 21, 2005 12:33 am ] |
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t-nuts work and i think they may be available from woodworkers supply but one can simply use a nut either side of your ply. but why use 1/2" all thread? that is over kill. 1/4" ir 5/16" is fine, and put conduit over the rods. it protects the wood from dings by the threads. |
Author: | old man [ Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:46 am ] |
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I think I used 3/8", but put mine together just like Michael said. Countersink the nut on the bottom. Works great. Ron |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Fri Oct 21, 2005 5:03 am ] |
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[QUOTE=old man] I think I used 3/8", but put mine together just like Michael said. Countersink the nut on the bottom. Works great. Ron[/QUOTE] This what I did as well on my first. If you use MDF don't counter-sink any deeper than needed for nut clearance and use aluminum tubing around the all thread to protect from bumping your work aginst the threads. I c-sunk mine too deep the fist co round and the pulled through after a year of use. I built my second with birch ply. Much better for just a bit more money. |
Author: | old man [ Fri Oct 21, 2005 5:27 am ] |
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Good point, Michael. Actually my base is a heavy 3 layers thick: mdf, 3/4 ply, mdf. My top is two layers, mdf and 3/4 ply. I also used conduit, and left my all-thread about 10" long above the top in case I ever need to raise the ceiling. Ron |
Author: | bob J [ Sat Oct 22, 2005 2:19 am ] |
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Thanks Michael and everyone. I was following materials and instructions for Stu/Mac model. None here have 1/2 t-nut so I will take rods back and exchange for 3/8. |
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